I did not notice any clutch slip during driving and the salesman said thats how mazdas are. Don’t think bite point position relates to how borked the clutch is. I was naive and didn't think too much about the high clutch biting point.Fifteen months and less than 4000 miles later, having been helped on … Resulting in the master cylinder moving fully but the slave cylinder only moving partial amount of its designed travel.. the the pressure place would still be half clamping the clutch to the flywheel. Presume this would apply to Bora PD models with 6 speed as well, and when a new clutch is fitted the biting point may be lower than the one it replaced then adjusts itself to its normal biting point (i.e high) over a preiod of time. Something similar happens in cars with a hydraulic system and a manual gearbox. New clutch, very high engagement point. I have had a clutch that grabs a 1/4" off the floorboard and a clutch … I scheduled an appointment to get it looked at and on the way to the shop (an hour long drive) it went out completely. But during the test drive, I noticed the car had a really high clutch biting point, more than half way up. As said, I put the car on axle stands, bite point was mid/low. As a clutch wear, it takes longer for the plates to come together which means your biting point gets higher. In this case, the pedal needs to be pushed lower to actuate the clutch. Causing clutch drag and a biting point really really low . A high biting point on the clutch means that it is necessary to press the lever for a longer distance until the clutch is effectively engaged. I'm finding hard to get used to the biting point as it is, but maybe that's how a new clutch is supposed to be like. I have been driving manual for 5 years now and I never drove a car with such a high biting point. The adjustment on the pedal is not really changing the engagement of the clutch.. it's just changing pedal travel mostly. Although I must say I would not have got a new clutch because someone told me the biting point was high. Faulty clutch. The bite point in my civic is almost at … its just the way they are . Like contamination. Riding the clutch, driving for long distances with the clutch partially engaged; Dropping the clutch, i.e.- racing starts; Slowing down the vehicle by downshifting and using the engine backpressure to slow the car down. Posted 3 years ago There's no leaks, fluid was changed 3 months ago. So my previous clutch started slipping pretty bad out of nowhere. When I tried to start from a stop in 1st metal shavings came out of the AC vents and then I couldn't get the car to move. When you get a new clutch, the pads are at full width and the biting point is lower. Discussion Starter • #1 • 9 mo ago. Well that's the thing. 1 Posts . I think it is something other than air in the system. Surely there has to be a problem it's an hydrolic clutch so the bite point should always be at the bottom unless you have an issue with the slave or master cylinder. Biting point was so high my heel couldn’t be on the floor when releasing the clutch. Completely normal, its because its a brand new clutch which has zero wear on it. Hey people, Really sorry just hijacking a thread on the Community but just had a new clutch fitted on my 320D E90 and the biting point is Ridiculously High. i've driven about 6 different mk4 golfs, and they all have high biting points. New clutch, bit point high. I bought my Ocotber 2006 DB9 in March 2009. , its because its a brand new clutch which has zero wear it. Biting points axle stands, bite point was high and the salesman said thats mazdas. Case, the pads are at full width and the salesman said thats how mazdas.... 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